One

November 15, 2021
British cook Jones (The Modern Cook’s Year) offers vegetarian recipes and tips for stewardship of the environment in this cluttered and perhaps too lofty collection. The “one” here is misleading: while three chapters are organized by cooking vessel—“one pan,” “one pot,” and “one tray”—many recipes require both pots and pans, and numerous bowls. A group of nominally “quick” dishes includes shepherd’s pie, which is baked for 30–40 minutes after its spiced filling has simmered for 25 minutes and its potatoes have been boiled separately for 20. Haphazard organization leads to overlap: a shakshuka with fava beans, and a “Greek-inspired take” on another shakshuka inhabit different categories. Jones often supplies so many options that authority drains away: Korean-style vegetable pancakes can be made any size, and the garlic in the batter can be crushed or finely chopped, while a recipe for brownies with almond butter offers two sets of instructions. And the jumble of familiar information on how to avoid waste, such as keeping condiments refrigerated and checking best-by dates, feels like an afterthought. The approach is well-meaning, and there are gems—including a red lentil casserole shingled with sweet potato slices—but formidable effort is required to unearth them. While the title promises simplicity, this mostly yields a complex muddle.

January 1, 2022

In her latest cookbook, seasoned British food writer and Guardian columnist Jones considers the impact our food choices make on the planet. She thoughtfully explains how even small changes can make a significant positive difference (e.g., cooking in a single pot reduces the amount of water used to wash up). Jones also offers practical strategies for reducing food waste in the kitchen, minimizing energy use during cooking, and supporting sustainable agriculture. The broad range of globally inspired recipes are all vegetarian, and any of them can be made vegan. Each recipe utilizes seasonal produce along with nuts, seeds, and legumes, and is cooked in a single pot, pan, or tray. Dishes range from pastas and savory pies to hearty salads and soups, as well as enticing vegan dessert options. A highlight is the chapter featuring 10 different ways to cook 10 easy-to-find vegetables, such as broccoli, carrots, and green beans. VERDICT Jones offers dozens of tempting vegetarian recipes that highlight creative ways to prepare a variety of seasonal, sustainable produce; perfect for anyone seeking unfussy plant-centered recipes and those new to vegetarian or vegan cooking.--Kelsy Peterson

Copyright 2022 Library Journal, LLC Used with permission.

Starred review from October 1, 2021
When is a cookbook not just a cookbook? When it integrates instruction, inspiration, and a solid rationale that extends beyond dish preparation and gets to the heart of a particular culinary ethos. Jones' approach emphasizes ecologically sound practices without sacrificing flavor, variety, or efficiency. Among recipes (from sides to sweets to mains) organized by method of preparation (baking dishes, pots, and sheet pans), she integrates sections that focus on how to approach food consumption in a conscientious, small-footprint, waste-less way. Of particular usefulness is the final section, delving into creative and simple ways to re-use and use up ingredients, reducing food waste. Having both the why and the how in one volume significantly increases the resonance of both--and the likelihood that home cooks will be able to follow through with these planet-friendly plans. Jones' recipes are meatless, full of flavors inspired by many world cultures, and often include variations. Imperial and metric measurements are provided, saving conversion time. While seasonal eating and local foraging tips center around Jones' London home base, they aren't so particular that they won't be useful to U.S.-based readers, especially in northerly climes. Put this at the top of the list for greening-up with flavor and ease.

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